Someday I'll be Saturday Night

Right now I am really enjoying the view from my second floor, kitchen/living room window. The day is absolutely gorgeous, just the right temperature with a mild breeze, and our two trees in the front yard, which are interestingly melded together, are creating a nice mixture of shade and reflection of sunlight.

My washing machine/dryer (yes! It is an all-in-one machine) is making a gentle vibration throughout the kitchen, humming happily as it does its duty. Every once in a while I can hear some movement underneath me, and I guess it’s the sound of my neighbor taking care of weekend chores.

Usually all these things are a trivial part of my day, but today, after reading my last blog and realizing the intensity my defeatist outlook was taking on my physical being and that particular week, these sounds and sights make me the happiest person alive – it means I have a place to live and some things to call my own.

Only a few days after I posted the last blog, Alex and I stumbled across a cute little apartment that fit our needs perfectly. We were pretty down about our situation, and were just about to give up the search for an apartment and go the subletting route again. I mean, we really had no choice by then. Not only had we managed to NOT find a suitable apartment, Alex almost got into a fight with an unemployed (and very bitter) black man in Anacostia, we had walked all of DC and into some of the worst areas in the region and were getting blisters, we missed July 4th festivities, and we were finding it particularly hard to balance work, studying and an apartment search.

So take all of these emotions and frustrations and apply them to this scene: After viewing three other apartments – one of which was wayyy to small and overpriced, another which wasn’t too bad but was a basement apartment and also pretty small, and skipping out on one that was in Anacostia where we didn’t know if we should be more worried about our safety or the quality of the building.

We managed to schedule one more apartment viewing, but we were really unenthusiastic and became increasingly so as we walked to it. At first the area didn’t seem so bad, but then we hit the street just one block away and it looked as if it may get really ghetto. I expressed my dissatisfaction to Alex and we ALMOST turned back, but Alex persuaded me to just put in the five minutes to see the place.

At this point, I just wanted to get it over with. When we approached the building, it was very plain looking but had a fresh coat of paint. It was an ok start, and it went uphill from there. The man renting out the apartments was a contractor who had gutted the whole building and redid EVERYTHING. All the appliances were new, the flooring, the bathroom, the carpet, the fans – EVERYTHING! And we would be some of the first tenants.

I’m not sure if we liked the apartment of the landlord more. Ken, the landlord, is an extremely wholesome guy with a huge heart and an even bigger family – 8 children! We immediately took to him and as far as we can tell, he liked us as well.

As for the apartment, we acknowledged that it was a bit smaller than we were hoping for but that it was ideal. The salon has two big windows that keep it well lit during the day. The kitchen comes equipped with granite countertops, more than adequate cabinet space, a brand new refrigerator and oven, and a washing machine that doubles as a dryer (which I mentioned earlier). Moving along, the bathroom is pretty standard and has a large Jacuzzi style tub. Lastly, the bedroom is a bit on the small side but has a wonderful large window that faces the sun in the morning.

The surrounding area is pretty small, with a recreation center and field on one side, and residential area on the other. We are a quick 15 min walk to the Eastern market and ten minutes away from the nearest metro. We also have a huge grocery store, wholesale store, Blockbuster and sports store only three minutes down the street. Alex and I agree that we couldn’t ask for more right now. The place is ideal.

Last weekend Alex’s family came over to see the apartment and it was really enjoyable. It was pretty much the first time Alex and I had a chance to visit family, and just enjoy being around children and chatting.

His sister, Vicky, bought us a huge slow cooker as our housewarming gift. I have never operated or used a slow cooker, in any way. It was definitely a huge surprise, although welcome because Alex can eat like a champ.

In fact, I used it just this past week. I tried out my vegetarian chili recipe in it, and although it took eight hours to cook, it was the easiest clean up in the world and now I have enough chili to last me two weeks! Even better, the chili turned out great. I think the slow cooker and I will become very good friends. Thanks, Vic!

Our next adventure? Missouri! Alex is super excited to get cruising along I-70, and listen to some good ole country music. Last time there was also a great classic rock selection. So if anyone is up for a visit in StL just shoot me an email!

Oh if you get a chance, go to www.psychologytoday.com and take one of their quizzes. Or just read one of their hundreds of interesting articles. I am addicted, and spreading the word!

Let It Be

Although I took far too long getting around to updating my blog, I am finally doing one stateside. For those of you I haven't had the chance to speak to, we are safely in Washington DC and slowly on our way to being fully settled. Alex and I returned a little over 3 weeks ago and it has proven to be a tumultuous return. We will get to that.

I must apologize for my neglect to blog about the rest of our European backpacking adventure. Suffice it to say that those three weeks in 5 different countries was an absolutely priceless experience (although the euro had its way with our wallets). Paris was by far one of the most beautiful and exciting places I have been, and our hosts, Kevin and Fabrice, were fabulously wonderful. They showed us endless hospitality, and I will always be grateful to them for it. I hope to scatter the blogs following this one with stories of Europe - so tune in.

Onto the present. The title of this blog is - yes, you guessed it - after the soothing Beatles song. If you haven't heard it, please find it on the world wide web and inform yourself. The theme of the song only has a small role to play in this blog, instead it represents my mood. As I made dinner I couldn't stop thinking about this song. I just had to hear it. Maybe I'm lying - maybe it has everything to do with this blog.

Ok, I need to stop being so....vague. The situation in DC is a bit different than I imagined it. Especially after the few days of media coverage on the political situation in Lebanon, I am beyond happy to be back in America in one piece. In the fall I will be attending the university that was on top of my list, in order to finish my undergraduate degree. My internship is interesting and, as long as take advantage, shows plenty of opportunities for me to move upward.

You would think I couldn't be happier. But reality has reared her disgustingly ugly head and Alex and I are at her beck and call. I know we have nowhere to move but up, but there seems to be 4 rungs missing in the ladder and we have no tools to fix the problem.

So many things Alex and I thought would present no challenges have proven to be the most difficult tasks to accomplish. We got lucky by finding a place to live a couple months in the DC area. Alex knew a guy who knew a guy...you know the story. We have until August 1st here, and we are desperately looking for a nice apartment to call our own after our sublet expires.

Since Alex has a full-time and part-time position, I am tasked with the job of everything else. Of course I don't mind, it's the least I can do. Alex likes being the bread-winner - how can I take that dignity away from him? I am in charge of logistics - errands, dinner, laundry (and other such duties that fall into this category) and most recently, apartment searching.

The former has proven to be the barbed wired fence for Alex and I. New York (not to mention apartments overseas) was a bit more casual was a bit more lax in this respect, and so we were not expecting the obstacles we've encountered. Alex and I are, across the board, unable to find a nice apartment in a good location due to extremely inflexible leasing contracts.

Across the board, apartments in DC require that occupants prove they are making four times the amount of rent per year. Usually this cannot be a combined total, meaning Alex alone must make more than 3 times the price of rent per year. I would average the cost of an ok apartment in an ok location at about $1500 per month. Let's do the math together. $1500 times 12 equals $18,000. And $18,000 multiplied by 3 is $54,000.

How can a 21 and 23 year old couple prove that just one of them makes $54,000? I realized something like this may be a problem and I had a few tricks up my sleeves. I asked: Can we override the salary requirements with a substantial savings/checking account? Can we put in an application and put the apartment on hold since Alex and I are waiting on calls from places we interviewed at?

Unfortunately, they were all pretty adamant about sticking to their policies. And so we are left in the dust, one apartment viewing after another. Every time they try and console us with talk of the possibility of a cosigner...haha. Anyone who knows us, knows that is just a laughing matter.

I guess it wouldn't be so damn frustrating if the DC job market wasn't so tight. I just had to move across the world to get a few plush internships and jobs. I made money just being American. And now I'm up against thousands of others like me...according to my resume, I'm a dime a dozen.

Funnily enough, someone said something to me this past Friday that hit on this exactly. At the Friday after-hours gathering the organization I intern for holds, an employee for the private military company MPRI came to join us. As a joke I tried to leverage my organization's close relationship with the company into a job interview. He jokingly replied, "What do you have to offer MRPI?" Goodheartedly, I started to describe my overseas adventures. To which he replied, "Well, we all have that."

And in a sense he is right. I don't doubt that going overseas was a unique experience in the broad range of being an American. But in places like New York and DC, I am one among the thousands who are excited to take life by storm. So what do I have to offer the world? Guess I'll spend the next year trying to find my niche.

How does one go from traveling the world, finding it easy to adapt to different cultures and environments, working with some of the most recognized institutions in the MENA region to struggling in the workplace and living conditions in her native country? It's not a lack of confidence. Believe me, when I ask the Fortune Gods to let me through the golden gates of success I ask with a hearty and strong "please"...and the answer has so far been a resounding "no".

I think I may be so bold as to say that I understand adults, who I always chalked up to losers, that say they never have time for certain things, or they don't know where all the time went. Working a 9-5 has been an eye-opener. This is my first white collar job, and I applaud those who are able to break into the white collar job market and maintain it. And the saints who go one step further and create families (functional is optimal) should be eligible for the Nobel Peace Prize.

I don't mean to make this blog into a sob story. In fact, that is quite the opposite of my intention. Of course obstacles are a part of life, and in a few months I'm sure this will be all finished and gone. Yes all of this is on my plate right now, and I would rather not have to deal with it, but just today I realized that it is only driving me.

I know many who would use this as the perfect excuse to quit. My situation isn't even anywhere near rock bottom, but a lot of people would go the easy route. They would settle. But I didn't leave my hometown in Missouri to quit now. I didn't work at a retail store during the first two years of university to pay the rent and have food on the table, and have nothing to show for it. I didn't go overseas to party for a year. I have a goal, and it will be seen. Alex has plans for his life, and we have plans for our life together - we are not going to stop now.

This emotional rhetoric may seem contrary to the message of the song, "Let It Be". A good friend once told me he hated this Beatles song because of the message, but I have to disagree. In times of trouble, you sometimes have to realize that there is a reason and rhyme for things. To let your emotions dictate your actions, especially in hard times, can have bad results. The song is not about giving up, or settling.

No, not at all. One has to realize that the circumstances will change. The winds will blow a different song, and things will always work out as long as you listen. In the meantime, realize that the answer may not be clear at first but, in the words of the Beatles, "Up there will be an answer." Up there is different for everyone - a God, perserverence, knowledge, time.

My favorite lyric is by far, "When the night is cloudy there is still a light that shines on me. Shine until tomorrow, let it be." And that's what keeps me going. Regardless of the situations Alex and I face, I am still the enthusiaist I set out as. But it takes an unGodly amount of effort. Those who have tried know that patience and reason truly take work to put into practice and the Beatles captured that idea beautifully in their song.

European Euphoria

Rovinj is a cute little village on the Northern Croatian border, and Alex and I found our way there today. We were planning on staying in Dubrovnik, but somehow we overlooked the fact that there are no ferries to Dubrovnik from Venice. Oh well. That was the least of our troubles the last two days.

Thursday night we decided to sleep overnight in Casablanca airport because there were no trains early enough to check in for our flight, and usually there are no taxis running that early either. So from 11 pm - 5 am we slept surprisingly well at a cafe and were up right on time to check in.

Unfortunately the airport in Milan decided to go on strike that day so our flight was delayed for 12 hours. We had no place to go and nothing to do. We spent the time reading a bit and napping a lot.

Our plane did not actually take off until 7 because a Moroccan man did not like the fact that smoking on the plane was prohibited. He put up a really unnecessary fight and even tried to get some of his comrades to boycott the flight. In the end he gave in, and sat down like everyone else.

We arrived in Milan pretty late, caught a late bus into the city center and crashed at a two star hotel. For the price (which was still a bit expensive) it was a pretty nice hotel in a nice area. We finally got to sleep at 3 am and were up again at 8 to head to Venice.

Getting to Venice ended our traveling troubles. We ate well, walked much of the city and just relaxed until we hopped on a ferry to Rovinj. We found a cute little apartment for 50 euros a night, and although the price is a little more than we wanted to spend it is definitely worth it.

Will tell more later in the week!

Final Boarding Call for Terminal 18

In one of my previous posts I added a little commentary about an interview I had for an internship position in Washington DC, and said that I would not name the organization so as to not jinx my chances. Well, it worked! I was accepted as a summer intern at International Peace Operations Association!

In other news, Alex and I are flying out tomorrow morning at 7 for Italy. We will be spending a day or two there before taking a ferry from Venice to Croatia...I think I detailed this in another previous post so I won't bore you with all the details again.

Since we are backpacking through various parts of Europe, I will not have many chances to blog, etc. I will try my best to keep everyone updated and detail some of our adventures. Don't worry, I will give a complete update once we are stateside.

Speaking of returning to the states, Alex and I will have to get our butts down to DC basically as soon as we land on American soil. I do not know how much time we will have to visit, or what areas we will hit. But we have plans to travel back up to New Jersey for the two weekends after we get back and visit Missouri for the 4th of July holiday. Will give more details in the coming month.

Now you have basic idea of what's going on for the next month, let me tell you about the last week. My friend and Alex's editor, Matthias, visited us this last week from Beirut. We were both really excited since it was the first time in a long time that we hosted anyone. And we couldn't have asked for better weather or a better way to spend our time.

We spent the first couple of days in Fez. Alex and Matthias had a few necessary meetings, etc, but a lot of time was spent on exploring the area. I took Matthias down to the old medina to do a bit of shopping and we exploited Fez like pros. The best part was Matthias' choice of restaurants. I had the best meals in Morocco during his visit.

This trend continued when we bussed it up to Chefchaoun. It being my favorite Moroccan city, I had to take him there. We spent a couple relaxing days there, ate great food, bought cheap textiles and ventured in and out of Chefchaoun's sites. I must say that during our shopping escapades, Matthias and I mastered the bartering system with a game we like to call "good cop, bad cop". It's pretty self-explanatory, and really works.

Our last stop together was Rabat. Of course we ate amazing food and just had fun exploring the medina. We also visited the Kasbah, and the gardens of Rabat. It was definitely worth the trip.

Matthias is finishing up his trip in Marrakech, and so you will have to find out from him how his Moroccan adventure ended! I do know that he is returning to Beirut a couple carpets and textiles richer!

As for Alex and I, we are in Casablanca just waiting to board our flight. We went to see the Hassan II Mosque, which is the biggest in Africa. It was one of the most majestic buildings I have ever seen. The outside is just as decorative and intricate as the inside. Walking around the mosque at sundown is definitely the best time of day.

Right now I am going to recharge with a pain au chocolate. Get ready Eastern Europe, here we come!

Find Your Voice: A Cross-Cultural Forum on Political Participation and Civic Activism

Last weekend I attended a conference in Morocco’s capital of Rabat, and had the opportunity to hear some of the opinions and concerns of Morocco’s youth. Alex and I both agree that our experience in Morocco differs quite a bit from our stay in Beirut, in that we have not had a chance to befriend or discuss any important issues with Moroccans of any age. In fact, up until last weekend, the extent of our interactions with Moroccans were with shopkeepers and Arabic professors.

The conference, called “Find Your Voice: A Cross-Cultural Forum on Political Participation and Civic Activism”, was jointly sponsored by Moroccan and American NGOs (including POMED and AID) in which 50 participants were selected to participate. Surprisingly it was a great array of Moroccan and American students, all willing and eager to engage panelists and express their opinions in group discussions.

To read more about the conference (and future conferences you could apply for) here is a link to POMED’s website:

http://pomed.org/activities/conferences/

Our main topics included Moroccan youth and the barriers they face in political participation and the lack of youth involvement in all areas of society, societal problems like illiteracy rates and poverty, role of media and civil society, role of government in all of these areas and finally the tools in which Moroccans and Americans can increase their involvement and the involvement of others.

We were lucky enough to have four great panels throughout the conference. Some of the panelists included US Embassy staff, members of Moroccan parliament, NGO representatives, a manager from Barack Obama’s campaign, a radio broadcaster from a Moroccan radio station and a well-known Moroccan blogger and activist. After the panels we were invited to participate in discussion groups in order to express all our personal opinions, add to the opinions of the panelists and suggest “policy recommendations” (which I will get to).

Of course, as students and young adults, we (Moroccans and Americans alike) were all very opinionated. Group discussions, in particular, tended to become very intense. It become very clear that Moroccans and Americans had completely different thought processes and ideas on the definition and ways to create change.

We began by discussing some of the problems facing Moroccans, including: a 50% illiteracy rate, a political infrastructure that catered to a political elite and no programs for youth involvement, media facilities distrusted on a wide scale and the poor development of the Moroccan media industry, inadequate number of schools of journalism and training for journalists (there are only 2 schools of journalism is all of Morocco), the slow rate of growth of civil society in Morocco and their low impact on political and societal issues, and finally how to get youth more involved in political participation and civic activism that had a positive affect on the development of Morocco.

Of course these are problems faced by governments and populations all over the world, and so it was fun to get the American and Moroccan perspectives on all these issues. During the course of the conference, it became increasingly apparent that there was a huge gap between American and Moroccan mentalities. Americans took it for granted that they were dealing with other students who were completely aware of individual rights and a culture of individual responsibility, as we are. And Moroccans, who grow up in a culture completely different than ours, tended to make suggestions that did not in any way to attack fundamental problems, rather their solutions were to amend one law or create another in order to change the system.

Of course, it is important to be able to work in a system, that is government or business structure, and make small changes for the better instead of try and attack a system as a whole. If the youth rose up against the Moroccan kingdom the king would not just give up his power, but seek to squash the revolution and consolidate his power. Maybe the king would institute some reform, but this would not be the best way to tackle the situation.

And, of course, the Americans are used to a system that actively engages the youth and creates countless opportunities for the youth to get involved and use their creativity and enthusiasm for the betterment of the country.

What both groups tended to ignore were fundamental issues that needed to be addressed. Like the illiteracy rate, or awareness of the culture of individuality and change. Americans have been told since they were old enough to speak, if not by their parent then definitely in school, that they have certain rights that no one can take away from them and that they have every opportunity in the world to be successful. We forget that.

To create awareness, there needs to be a change of mindset in Morocco and it has to start with the real youth. The youth young enough to be educated in a way that inspires them to be academically productive without the worries of family and monetary responsibilities. If an American child had to worry about doing all the daily chores instead of dream of all the things they want to do when they grow up, our culture would be wholly different. The education system in Morocco has to encourage students to think as individuals and also to expose them to other cultures and mindsets so that they can formulate opinions and criticisms for themselves. I am not an expert, but I have not seen any of this kind of education on a wide scale in Morocco.

Anyway, back to the conference. Throughout the conference, the participants were given the task of coming up with “policy recommendations” based on the insight of the panelists and the developments during group discussions. These recommendations were directed toward the American and Moroccan governments as suggestions for reform in order to open the doors for greater opportunity for political participation of the Moroccan youth.

I personally felt that the policy recommendations ended up being too vague and not creative enough. The end of the conference probably let a bitter taste in everyone’s mouths because it seemed all of our discussion did not yield as optimistic results. On the other hand, I met a lot of great people and learned a lot about the Moroccan youth…overall the conference was a success!

On the Road Again...

My stint in the Middle East and North Africa (MENA) region is coming to an end, in about two weeks. I have a few last adventures, and then its back to the Western world for Alex and I. Admittedly we are more than looking forward to our return, but of course I am leaving with great memories and a desire to return sometime in the near future.

Our last two weeks are jam-packed with plans and here is a brief run down of them. First, Alex and I were accepted to attend a conference in Rabat run by the Project on Middle East Democracy (POMED). It is a cross-cultural and political forum for Western and Moroccan youths. Alex and I decided to do a home-stay, or stay with Moroccan individuals instead of a hotel, during the conference to get a little taste of Moroccan life. I will definitely let you know how it goes.

The final ceremonies of the conference are on Saturday night, and we plan to stay in a hotel overnight so that we can join our mutual friend from ALIF for a Mormon gathering in Rabat on Sunday morning to afternoon. We will meet many of the American embassy families staying in Rabat, and will join them for dinner after the Mormon church service.

We only have two days of study and rest next week before we head out to Ifrane, a Moroccan town that looks like it was modeled after a Swiss village, for my birthday. The town has the only university in Morocco modeled on the American education system. It has a sister high school, which is rumored to be switching from the American system to a French education system and Alex just wrote a story on it for Executive magazine.

On May 1st, Alex’s boss is traveling to Morocco to do a bit of sightseeing and business. Although we will not be hosting him right away as he is traveling to Marrakech alone, we will meet up with him the weekend after he flies in. We have plans to visit Chefchaoun and show him around Fez, and then we will finish up with one day in Rabat and another in Casablanca. For Alex and I, it will be our last sightseeing opportunity in Morocco. I will miss Chefchaoun the most.

Our time in the MENA region may be ending on May 9th, BUT the fun doesn’t stop there. Alex and I just finalized our travel plans from May 9th to June 4th and our plans would make even Kofi Annan jealous.

From Morocco we are flying into Venice, Italy. We may spend a full day there, but our real goal is to take the ferry from Venice into Croatia. We are arriving to Eastern Europe with only a backpack and lots of suntan lotion. We have no concrete plans except to eat well, enjoy as many beaches as possible and do a bit of partying in Serbia’s well known clubs. Who knows what will happen.

Then somehow…we haven’t figured this part out yet…we are going to travel from Serbia to France. We will make our way up to Paris, where we will meet Amy and her cousins Kevin and Fabrice for a relaxing week in the City of Love. Paris is, of course, the most exciting part of our month of backpacking through Europe and I cannot wait to see it!

Undoubtedly it will be hard to depart from Paris, but we won’t be giving up much as we are going straight from Paris to the beautiful countryside of Portugal. Alas, we only have a few days to indulge ourselves in delicious Portuguese food and activities before hopping on a plane back to Casablanca.

Now, I know that I just said we wouldn’t be returning to Morocco after May 9th, and it was a bit of white lie. However, it only counts as half a lie because we are just flying into the airport for a layover on our way back to America. We spend about half a day in Casa, and, if everything goes well, we will arrive in America on June 4th.

So, I know what you are thinking and yes, we do know – in fact, we have a list of what we want to do as soon as we land in the amazing red, white and blue. They are:

1. Drop $100 in the most quality and price efficient store that has ever existed…Walmart.
2. Find a restaurant with pork steaks and potatoes.
3. Get American coffee.
4. Buy normal sized cups.
5. Listen to American Radio.
6. Get phone plans.
7. Shop for normal American clothes.
8. Literally talk in the English language as much as we can.
9. Take a jog on residential streets (without the fear of being yelled at).
10. Alex will probably burn his Al Kitab (Arabic Texbook).

On the last note, Alex and I are working diligently to set up internships and jobs in Washington DC so that we can set up shop there immediately after our return. We both already have interviews with a few places. If anyone knows of any job openings or any opportunities please let us know. Or if you know of any vacant apartments for rent. Thanks!

Hammams Galore

A friend once turned to me and said, “In a culture that was once known for its hammams, soaps, perfumes and cosmetics, there is truly a lack of cleanliness among the people now.” And in a sense he is right. If you casually walk down the street and take a look around, you will find many children and people covered in filth.

Of course some of there people may be beggars and do not have access to running water. The children may just like to play in the dirt. And others are shopkeepers, farmers or something of the sort and do not place as much importance on daily hygienics as, say, Americans.

On the other hand, he is absolutely wrong. The hammam culture in the Middle East is still thriving. At least in the three Middle Eastern countries I have traveled well, hammams were readily available to men, women and children. One trip to the hammam will leave you cleaner than you have ever felt, or been, in your life.

Mondays are now the official day Tove, a fellow language student and friend, and I grab our towels, olive oil soap and exfoliation mitts and head down to the old medina to get a good scrub down. It’s an experience like no other, and actually quite addictive.

So let me explain this hammam thing to you. Hammams are pretty much a sauna and bath all in the same place. It usually consists of two to four public tiled rooms: a hot room, a cold room, a sauna and sometimes a massage room. Nicer ones, of course, have more goodies inside like private showers, pools, etc. The hot room can sometimes serve as the sauna which makes cleaning much easier (I will explain this).

So the process is pretty simple, although time consuming. But, take it from me, it is definitely worth it. Trips to the hammam are really inexpensive as you only need a small rinse bucket, olive oil soap, a matt to sit on and an exfoliation mitt. I also bring shampoo and body wash, but there are preferential and not necessary.

You take your goodies and a couple of buckets and take your place on the floor, either in the hot or cold room. The cold room is only a little cooler, as it is either further away from the sauna or the hot water fountain, but it is a bit easier on the lungs. And then you take your buckets and fill one with hot water and another with cold, unless you have the luxury of having water heated to the right temperature.

After you mix water to a nice temperature, you sit in the hot room or sauna and let your skin soften. Wet your hair and body and just relax. After a good ten or fifteen minutes it’s time to get to work. Sitting on your mat, you lather yourself up in olive oil soap and let it sink into your skin for five minutes. Rinse it off and prepare yourself.

The majority of the time you spend scrubbing yourself vigorously with the exfoliation mitt. It is pretty much a glove of sandpaper. Maybe a better way to describe it is a pumice stone that you can wear. And you start at your legs and work you way up, leaving yourself raw and red afterward. Bring a friend to do your back!

It may sound a bit overexcessive, but while you are scrubbing yourself down you will see and feel rolls of black or grey dead skin detach itself from your body. It is the most disgusting but absolutely invigorating experience. After you rinse all the dead skin off, you can finish up by washing your hair and doing a final rise with body wash.

When you leave the hammam you will literally feel like your body was freed from a prison. Your skin will be able to breath and your sense of touch and feeling will be slightly different…a bit more acute.

For some women and children it is their only bath for the week, but in essence they cleaner than I was for the first 20 years of my life. During my first hammam experience in Morocco I paid a lady to exfoliate and massage me, and she found amusement in pointing out the sickening amount of dead skin that was coming off my body.

These people grew up being scrubbed down by their mothers and now spend at least one day a week indulging themselves in the king of all cleanings. And Americans spend their time nitpicking over cleaning behind the ears with a washcloth and making sure a child spends at least 20 seconds washing their hands with soap after using the bathroom.

For anyone who has the opportunity, I would definitely encourage they go to a hammam, but this experience is not for all. For women (not men) and children, the hammam is pretty much a big public bathtub. Everyone is naked or with underwear on at the most, and everyone is just doing their thing. Those who like privacy or are germophobics should not even give hammams a try.

But for those up for the chance, hammams can be found throughout the Middle East. In Lebanon it was almost impossible to find a hammam with women’s hours but I know they exist. In Syria there was a really nice one in the old medina, and the prices were ridiculously cheap. I paid the entrance fee, for soap and supplies and a massage all for like ten dollars. In Morocco the prices are even cheaper. The entrance fee at the hammam I frequent is ten dirhams, or a little over a dollar, and the massage is about 50 dirhams or eight dollars.

Speaking of hammams, after my scrub down today (which put me in a really good mood) I went online and received an email from an organization in Washington DC that I had applied to for an internship position.

I came across the position by chance while surfing the web, but it immediately grabbed my attention and it’s been on my mind ever since I sent in my cover letter and resume. I worked really hard on the application because the position seemed really competitive.

Also the organization said they were only contacting those for interviews that they were considering for the position. Getting the email really made me feel good because it was an affirmation of all my accomplishments this year. Needless to say it put me in a giddy mood, and I really needed the lift in spirits.

I won’t name the organization because I don’t want to jinx my chances. I will have an interview in the next two weeks, and I will give an update after it takes place.